Wine kits
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Managing the fermentation:
- A clear fermenter with a spigot is always a good choice. Fermonsters with spigots are good for this. At least 7 gallon capacity is needed for a 6 gallon kit. (See Fermenters)
- Use RO or distilled water for reconstitution. This helps maintain the appropriate mineral levels and pH.
- Properly rehydrate your preferred yeast with Go-Ferm (proper temp, proper timing, don't stir, hold temperature if possible, attemporate slowly). This is probably the most important step in the whole process and should not be taken lightly. Healthy yeast makes a healthy fermentation.
- Aerate the must thoroughly.
- Pitch the yeast and stir.
- Control fermentation temperature at the low end of the yeast's range.
- Cover with a towel for the first few days, rather than an airlock/blow-off.
- With proper yeast handling you will see fermentation begin within 12-24 hours. At that point add the first addition of Fermaid O at the recommended rate (4.8g for 6 gallons). Dissolve it in warm/hot water.
- At 24 hours, add 3g/gal bentonite after degassing. Adding it dry is fine. Stir it and add it slowly because it will foam like crazy if it's not fully degassed.
- Degas and aerate at least daily until the 1/3 sugar break (assume FG around 0.993). Be gentle at first unless you like cleaning up wine off the floor.
- Add the second and final dose of Fermaid O at the 1/3 sugar break.
- Add an airlock or blow-off tube. I recommend a blow-off tube so it doesn't suck in oxygen when you swirl the fermenter to degas.
- Allow fermentation to complete and then degas by swirling repeatedly over the course of several days, but only if you can avoid pulling in air.
- If you were keeping it cool during fermentation, allow the temperature to increase to room temp.
Racking, fining, oaking:
- Measure FG and pH.
- Optional: Measure sulfite level.
- Optional: Measure TA.
- Adjust acidity if desired, and re-measure pH. (See Adjusting acidity in wine)
- Calculate the sulfite addition (based on pH). Target molecular SO2 around 0.8-1ppm and free SO2 around 50-100ppm. Use FermCalc.
- Add the first stage of clarity fining (kieselsol) to the secondary.
- Rack to secondary; A 5gal PET vessel (no spigot) is good for this but glass is fine too.
- Degas gently if still needed.
- Add the sulfite. Dissolve it in some water. Use fresh sulfite, not what game with the kit.
- If any sulfide is detectable, use an appropriate removal strategy.
- Add oak cubes if desired (chips aren't good). Stavin cubes for example give excellent results.
- Make sure the vessel is filled to the very top with just room for the stopper.
- Apply stopper and airlock.
- Add the chitosan after 24 hours and gently stir. (Remove some wine to make room)
- Taste periodically -- every week or so
- If you aren't oaking, just give it 1-2 weeks before bottling.
Bottling:
- Optional: Measure sulfite level and calculate additional dose if needed.
- Use good racking technique to avoid sediment in the bottling bucket.
- A Portuguese floor/table corker is a great value.
- Acquamark colmated corks from MoreBeer/MoreWine are also a great value.